Although it's true that most of us in New Orleans are fairly provincial, you wouldn't have guessed it standing outside Tipitina's Wednesday night. A decidedly international crowd had gathered to see Manu Chao, world music avatar extraordinaire, on a rare visit to the Big Easy. (Although rumor said that it was his first American tour, I also heard that he'd played in Denver last summer.) My friend Tamara, filled with music lust, got there early and reports that all twenty or so diehards at the door were chattering away in Spanish while she, the lone English speaker, looked on.
By the time I got there, more Americans were on the scene, but Spanish phrases floated through the mild evening air. The will-call ticket line snaked halfway around the building, and several music fans clamored for a spare ticket, as the show had sold out 10 am that morning. One guy drove nine hours from Florida to see the show, but without a ticket, he was stuck outside. (When asked why he didn't purchase a ticket before driving for nine hours, he replied, "every time I plan ahead, it bites me in the a@@.")
There's nothing quite like being part of a sold-out crowd at Tip's, pressed together in a sweaty mass under the benevolent face of Professor Longhair. As the opening DJs played, Manu Chao peeked out from backstage, wielding a video camera. The room filled with anticipation, made palpable as a cloud. When backup band Radio Bemba Sound System finally emerged - shirtless! - you could practically feel the air sparking.
After a tantalizing intro, Manu Chao swaggered onto stage, decked out in a workman's shirt and a reggae cap. Not only did he play tunes from his upcoming album, Rainin In Paradise, but he touched on a bunch of hits from his famous Clandestino, a musical collage of beats and languages from the world over, and even a couple of songs from his Manu Negra days. Instead of playing the crowd's favorites straight off the album, he slowed them down, reggae style, then amped the melody with punk-rock guitar. All in Spanish, with the exception of the English lyrics of "Bongo Bong." This track, which had originally hypnotized me into fandom, he played as a punk-rock chant: Mama was queen of the mambo/ Papa was king of the congo/ Deep down in the jungle I start banging off his bongo/ Every monkey like to be/In my place instead of me/Cuz I'm the king of bongo, baby, I'm the king of bongo bong.
I hadn't expected to get caught up in a moshpit, but sure enough, there we were, all of us shoving each other, lifting a few brave souls above our heads. I ran into some of the Zydepunks there, and also caught DJ Davis slamming into his neighbors. Some fun!
In the end, I think the show was just a tease for the 1 am after party at Dragon's Den, which I didn't have the fortune to attend. Drenched, drunk, and happy, I went home instead, to try and acclimate myself back to American life.